A river runs through it
East Branch Pemigewasset River on Lincoln Woods Trail
A river runs through it, by it, down it and so on. I had no time constraints this weekend and it was a dreary day, so it was time to tackle Owls Head Mountain. It’s a mountain directly in the middle of the Pemigewasset Wilderness with no way to it without 5 to 8 river crossing and more than 17 miles including two bushwhacks. From the beginning of this journey, I knew that Owls Head was going to be my nemesis for exactly those reasons. I figured that maybe 47 peaks were good enough right, but then determination sets in, and misery would only be temporary to accomplish my goals.
I arrived at the trail head around 6 AM and only one other car was there to which a solo hiker started out soon after me. I could see her down the very long, straight flat section of Lincoln Woods trail which was an old railroad bed from a 150 years ago when they clear cut the Pemi forest. I thought the light snow was only going to last a couple of hours, but it was wet conditions the entire hike to the top of the trail. It only subsided when I was 5 miles out from the car. In fact, it had snowed about 4 inches at the very top of the mountain. I was hiking alongside the East Pemi branch river with my hood up, so it was loud, and my ears were covered when a voice behind me just about gave me a heart attack. I knew she was behind me, but I was in the zone.
She was faster than me, but I could see her in front of me from time to time when the trail got dicey. I figured that if she was the only other one out here during spring and in this weather then she must have good trail knowledge, so I followed her footsteps at certain points. After talking to her, I was wrong about her expertise but nonetheless it didn’t matter, but funny how we are assured during hiking solo that the mere presence of another hiker settles the nerves and adds confidence. It was that confidence that was absolutely crucial on this hike. I am 100% positive that I would have turned around on this hike if it weren’t for her being there. And here is why. So, Lincoln brook was raging with snow melt and rock hoping was just not possible. The last trail report from last week said that it was still possible with extreme effort, so I figured I could manage.
Raging Pemi
We met at the river crossing, and she looked just as bewildered as me, constantly hiking up and down the riverbed examining the rocks looking for a suitable route like the game Frogger with the consequences being the same. We said a few words to each other, and she went upriver, and I went down river. I didn’t see her on the other side but went back upriver to see if she found a way. By the looks of it she managed to shimmy across a log which would not have held me, and my legs would have been in the water as well. So, I hopped across half the river and then took one large leap of faith. I figured only one leg would be in the water for a short period of time so it wouldn’t be that bad. Well, water found a way into my boot. It was then at the next river crossing was going to be where we formed an alliance as there was no way across except thigh deep forging spring Pemi spring water. I heard voices in my head that this was absolutely ridiculous and dangerous. I researched forging rivers before and you need to face upriver, head slightly down river as you move, unlatch your backpack in case you fall and need to move the weight from dragging you under and down river. Yup, I said that and that’s what we were facing. Before we had a chance to discuss logistics I started through the river and as I looked back, she was right behind me.
Wet and snowy Lincoln Brook Trail
Wow that was exhilarating. Now my boots and socks were completely drenched, and I had another 10 miles before the day was done. I most worried about freezing toes, however it was warm enough to not be an issue although it was touch and go as we got higher up, and the snow got deeper. I thought about having to do this at least two more times on the way back. Pressing on. Then the real hike began with almost 1500 feet of elevation in a mile up a slide with tons of loose rocks and rock scrambles… a terrifying climb. Again, we hiked together and made sure that we were in this together… forged by forging, I guess.
I have never turned around on a hike before and this would have been the one if ever. 9 miles to the top with no view and no grandiose picture… all that work for the sake of the sheer accomplishment of it. From the top we took the bushwhack down to avoid the slide down which would have been too scary and had to use of GPS apps on our phone to find the trail as we went along. I did the same on the first bushwhack up toward the rivers. During half the trek through both bushwhacks there was no visible sign of a trail, and I was literally in the middle of the woods, 7 miles away from any civilization, questioning my every step. Sometimes 'why' was the thought and then silenced with adventure and grit. Lost and truly lost in the woods are relative terms and it was a battle. The GPS apps are great and can tell me if I am off trail by 10s of feet, so it was the only way to get to where I needed to go. On the way out the river crossings were just a lot less debating, our feet were soaked still, so it was just a matter of smart forging. The rivers were moving at a good clip, so it was hard to make sure it didn’t sweep your legs out. You had to maintain 3 points of contact with the riverbed using trekking poles. Just don’t fall… just don’t fall.
Up towards the top of the mountain
All the rivers behind us were relief and back through the mud-soaked trails to which it was pointless to try to walk around. Back through the bushwhack and then the very long and flat walk out another 6 miles to the car. We chatted some of the way and was silent some of it which made the time pass along nicely. At the parking lot I thanked her for giving me the moxie to complete the hike and she did the same. I know it sounds cliché but sometimes people come into your life at certain points… call what you want but this was one of those moments. Well, that’s life, and that’s life while hiking… add it to the adventure. And boy, what an adventure this one was for sure.
Date
May 1st 2021
Distance
17.38 miles
Elevation Gain
3,232 feet
All Trails
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